RESOURCES

It’s important to prepare for your new dog’s arrival. Make sure he/she has a personal area set up for him/her before he/she is brought to your home, it is imperative, as you will be showing him/her that personal area as their new place in your home. This space should have their bed and/or crate and a few of their new toys.

Before letting your new dog in your home make sure to take them on a nice long walk to release any pent-up energy, they might have. They also need to get used to their new neighborhood and new surroundings. Do this so they are calm and able to take in the new training they are about to receive.

Training should begin immediately, show your new dog what he/she is going to expect the moment they enter your home. Don’t immediately take him/her off his/her leash. Start by leading them in room by room, show them areas they should and shouldn’t go, take your time with him/her. Establish ground rules, let him/her know you are the boss, and this is your home. Give them the breakdown of how you want them to behave right off the bat before you let them in each room.

Be sure to show them the feeding area, they should have access to food, toys and their new bed, etc.

Be calm, do not touch, do not talk and no eye-contact at first. You must be firm while establishing the rules, so they understand. Give them time to take it all in but also give time to be able to bond with you. 

Get them used to how it’s going to be and after establishing the rules don’t be surprised if your new dog goes straight to his/her personal area. This doesn’t mean your new dog doesn’t like you or like your new home it just means they might be tired or overwhelmed at first. 

After, give your dog time to recognize anyone else’s scent in your home. Let them familiarize themselves to their surroundings and to those who will be around frequently. This will take time.

The basic needs: collar and leash, identification, crates and containment (if you decide to crate train your new dog), dog bed, food and water bowls, food and treats, toys and a lot of love!!!

Your new dog will also need constant access to fresh food and water, a nutritionally balanced diet, a safe place to use the bathroom outside, and some daily exercise. 

Daily love and interaction from you as well are also something they need for them to be happy and healthy. Take them on car rides, to places where they can be social, to the groomers, keep him/her in contact with others, but be sure to watch their body language. Make sure your new dog is comfortable, make sure outings are fun and not stressful.

The answer is yes, you should dog /puppy proof your house. Many common items you have in your home are considered dangerous or toxic to your new dog. Certain plants can be dangerous, remember to put away medications, cleaning supplies are toxic, dog proof your trash cans, electrical cords, might want to dog proof your couch, if you have a cat… your dog will love their litter box, put away all small objects, Backyard safety (doggy fence), and don’t forget the HOLIDAYS! When decorating, strings, tinsel, pine needles, you name it could potentially end up in your new dog’s stomach. Even baked goods around the holidays are a potential risk. Think of your new dog as having a new baby or toddler. 

There’s always that awful bitter citrus spray that you can use to get your dog to stop chewing on your things… but then your items have that bitter spray on them all the time, plus it’s only really masking the problem.

Your dog may be bored by inactivity or loneliness (trying to get your attention), might be hyperactive due to an underlying cause… gum pain, an internal injury (because remember your dog cant speak or tell you he/she has a tooth ache or his/her tummy hurts, that’s why he/she’s chewing up your stuff), there also may be some discomfort or anxiety that your dog is experiencing. Chewing on your things is his/hers only means of communication.

During the first 6 months, if you have a puppy, they are teething and like babies they have sore gums. They might just be chewing on your things because they are trying to relive their soreness. Consider getting them some chew toys. 

Also, toys you give them shouldn’t be an old shoe or something that was once yours. A dog can’t differentiate between old and new objects but can tell if its yours and will automatically think all your things are to play with and chew on if they are given something with your scent. 

Monitor your dog too, if you see them chewing on a wire instead of their toy, firmly tell them no. let them know that chewing is only associated with their toys.

Exercise at least 30 min a day for your dog if chewing problems persist take your dog to the vet. (remember they are more like us than we think)

Do a walkabout of your yard. Is your yard completely fenced in? Are there any spaces or gaps that your new dog or puppy can escape through? (They can squeeze through very small spaces.) Is there anything that he can climb on that would allow him to escape over the fence (e.g., a wood pile, a fountain, latticework, garbage can)? Some dogs know how to flip open gate latches, so latches should be clipped or locked if your dog can reach them.

What sort of plants do you have in your yard? Snail bait and some plants (such as oleander, azaleas and rhododendrons) are poisonous to dogs. Antifreeze is another hazard for dogs – it is toxic and can be fatal. Dogs are attracted to its sweet taste, so don't allow your dog to drink from standing water near where cars have been parked.

Do you have an uncovered pond or pool in your yard? Dogs have been known to drown in backyard pools when they jumped or fell in and couldn't get out. You should also make sure your trash cans have tight lids to avoid "dumpster diving" by your dog. Besides the smelly mess that an overturned trash can creates, some of the items in your trash (like chicken bones) may be dangerous for your dog to ingest.

Ideally, you should check your yard for safety before your new dog comes home. If you haven't done this prior to the dog's arrival, supervise the time that your pet spends outside. Even a child's toy can be trouble if it is chewed up and swallowed.

Every year, many thousands of young wild animals are “rescued” by kind people wanting to help them. Unfortunately, many of these young animals do not need to be rescued. They do not need help and, in fact, moving them means that they are being separated from their mothers.

It is usually a life or death choice whether to rescue or not to rescue a young wild creature. Separating an animal from their mother will certainly lessen their chances for survival. On the other hand, not helping a very young orphaned animal may mean certain death for the animal. A mammal who does need to be rescued must be taken immediately to a licensed wildlife rehabilitator.

Call a licensed wildlife rehabilitator and ask for advice.

Fawns do not need rescuing, unless you have actually seen a dead doe nearby. Does leave their fawns alone for many hours every day. The fawn’s instincts lead them to lie absolutely still, and if a person tries to pick them up, they will appear to be paralyzed. This often leads the “rescuer” to assume that the fawn is injured and that they need help. However, this is a mistake: The fawn does not need help. Leave the fawn alone, and leave the area immediately.

Do not “rescue” the cubs of large carnivores such as bears, wolves, coyotes, bobcats or cougars. “Rescuing” them is likely to be very dangerous for you as well as for the cub. If you see a dead mother bear, wolf, bobcat, cougar, coyote or other large carnivore, and you see a cub nearby, carefully note the location of the animals, and call your state wildlife department. If you know a licensed wildlife rehabilitator who cares for large carnivores, you may call the rehabilitator instead. However, there may not be a large mammal rehabilitator near you.

Bear cubs frequently wander alone at some distance from their mother. A person removing them from the area is essentially kidnapping them. If the mother bear reappears suddenly, she will be very angry, very dangerous and very likely to attack. This is also true of other large carnivores. If you see a young cub who seems to be alone, leave the area immediately, and contact a state wildlife officer or a wildlife rehabilitator.

The wildlife officers will determine how to relate to the cub according to their own policies. In most cases, the cub is not really orphaned at all, and the cub’s mother will reappear. If the cub is genuinely orphaned, wildlife officers will be able to take the cub to a wildlife rehabilitator in some cases. In other cases, this will not be possible, and the cub may have to be euthanized. A genuinely orphaned young cub cannot survive alone in the wild, so euthanasia may be necessary

As a general rule, a wild adult mammal who is not moving away from you is either ill or injured. Do not attempt to rescue large adult mammals by yourself. Contact a licensed wildlife rehabilitator.

Don’t ever approach injured coyotes, bobcats, wolves, cougars, bears or any other large carnivores. They will become frightened and will attack. Even if you find an injured deer, don’t approach the animal. Stay a distance away, and call a rehabilitator or a state wildlife officer. Often, the local police or sheriff’s department will be able to contact a wildlife officer, even after normal hours. If you are with someone, one of you may stay at a distance watching the animal, while the other goes for assistance. Of course, it’s always helpful to have a cell phone with you.

In the case of large injured wild mammals, the options for helping them effectively are often very limited. It’s good to be aware of this when contacting a wildlife rehabilitator or a wildlife officer. Don’t insist that the animal be kept alive if the animal will not be releasable back into the wild; it may not be the kindest outcome for the animal.

If you find an injured skunk or raccoon, contact a wildlife rehabilitator before rescuing or moving the animal. You may rescue and transport to a wildlife rehabilitator small injured wild mammals, such as squirrels, chipmunks, cottontails, pack rats, marmots, voles or other small creatures. Be aware, though, that even very small mammals may bite, and some may carry diseases. 

There are rehabilitators who specialize in bats. If you find an injured bat, move the bat by placing a piece of cardboard underneath the bat, and placing the animal in a cardboard box. In rare cases, bats may carry rabies, so do not touch the bat with your hands. Call a wildlife rehabilitator. If someone else has touched the bat, keep a record of that person’s name and contact information to give to the wildlife rehabilitator.